Development of Draping Learning Media Through Dress Form in Determining the Pear Body Shape Compensation Ratio on Custom Skirts

Abstract

Skirts are one of the three fashion groups that have been around for a long time. The problem that is often faced by women with Pear body shape (pointy triangle up) when wearing a skirt is the side of the skirt that eavesdrops, the side rises up, the pelvic line rises, and the stomach part shrinks. The big difference between the size of the waist circumference and the pelvic circumference affects the quality of clothing. The pattern compensation ratio is a ratio determined to reduce the size of the clothing pattern. The compensation ratio on the pattern can be used on a custom skirt that is developed to be wider toward the right and left to make the ends of the skirt evenly. The pattern compensation ratio can be used on standard or fully developed skirts. The result of applying the pattern compensation ratio to the custom skirt depends on the type of material used. The Application Compensation ratio gives good results on materials with light, thin, and translucent properties, but materials with slightly heavy, shiny, and rather thick properties still need to be corrected in the pattern compensation ratio used. Although it is able to reduce the length of the fiber, it has not been able to produce a regular skirt that is parallel to the floor.


 


 


Keywords: compensation ratio, learning media, skirt

References
[1] Chan Ho Park and Jongsuk Chun, Development of the Bias-Cut Dress Pattern Making Method by Applying Fabric Draping Ratio. https://www.researchgate.net/ publication/267776709


[2] Amstrong, Helen Joseph. (1987). Pattern Making For Fashion Design. New York: Arper & Row Publisher.


[3] Hillhouse, Marion, & Evelyn A Mansfield. (1948). Dress Design Draping and Flat Pattern Making. United States of America: The Riverside Press Cambridge.


[4] G. Holman, Bias – cut dressmaking. https://www.researchgate.net/publication/ 267776709


[5] http://www.readorrefer.in/article/Identification-of-Grain-in-designing-of woventextiles-and- garment-designing_1875/, tanggal 23 January, pukul 13.00.