KnE Social Sciences | 3rd UNJ International Conference on Technical and Vocational Education and Training 2018 (3rd ICTVET 2018) | pages: 539–543

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1. Introduction

Draping is one of the fashion making systems in addition to the construction system, the advantages of the draping pattern system is that the application of the design can be directly realized using dress form media. By using dress form media, we can immediately see the quality of the results based on the level of suitability of the design [1].

Women's body shapes are categorized into four, namely: Body Shape Hourglass (time glass), Rectangular Body Shape (rectangle or straight), Apple Body Shape (pointed triangle down), Pear Body Shape (pointed triangle upwards) [2]. The body shape of Pear Body Shape (pointy triangle upwards) has a characteristic size of the waist and hip difference that is quite far away, with a body shape like this, women usually have problems using skirts. The problem that is often faced by women with Pear Body Shape body shape (pointy triangle up) when wearing a skirt is the side of the skirt that eavesdrops, the side rises up, the pelvic line rises and the stomach part shrinks. The more difference between the size of the waist and the pelvis, will cause the quality of clothes that are not good.

Development of geometric methods of measuring dimensional changes by calculating the fabric compensation ratio in the direction of attack by applying the fabric draping ratio, a theoretical method for making bias-cut patterns using gravitational forces and the fall properties of fabrics applied to custom skirts. Draping technique is very possible to form fashion uniquely and can be worn on the human body.

2. Result

The results of applying pattern compensation ratios to materials with mild, thin and translucent properties differ from those with slightly heavy, shiny and rather thick properties, this is influenced by differences in the types of weaving available. The light material uses plain weaving and thick material using satin woven. Satin weaving is known as the most easily stretched weaving while plain weaving is the strongest weaving among the three basic weaves.

Making satin yarn with a low twist causes less elasticity and weaving using jump numbers to make the fabric easier to stretch. This is caused by the braid points produced by a little satin woven. While the manufacture of plain woven yarn uses a high twist so that it produces good elasticity. The number of braid points produced by plain weaving also produces a stronger fabric [3].

FigureΒ 1
fig-1.jpg

The pattern compensation ratio is calculated using a formula:

PatternCompensation (%)=100100+π‘Ÿπ‘Žπ‘ π‘–π‘œπ‘Ÿπ‘’π‘”π‘Žπ‘›π‘”π‘Žπ‘›Γ—100

3. Calculate the Pattern Compensation Ratio

  • β€’ Average Angle of Change

  • β€’ Changes in Dimensions in Cloth Serong

The value of the elongated direction voltage (Lr) x 100

Where L'= long after hanging = 2 x cos ΞΈ /2

whiteL=2Γ—cos2β‹―β‹―β‹―β‹―. where =90∘white=2Γ—cos45white=2Γ—0.70white=1.41white=βˆ’whiteL'=2Γ—cos2β‹―β‹―β‹―β‹― where =85.8white=2Γ—cos42.9white=2Γ—0.73white=1.46whiteLr=L'βˆ’LLΓ—100white=1.46βˆ’1.41Γ—100white1.41white=3.9

4. Discussion

The pattern compensation ratio can be used on custom skirts to get the final edge of a flat skirt. Using a pattern compensation ratio makes making a more practical skirt more practical than determining the length of the side with the center length of the skirt face first and then cutting the bottom edge to smooth the suede skirt. The pattern compensation ratio can be used on standard or custom skirts that have undergone widening on both sides, but the results of applying pattern compensation ratios to custom skirts depend on the criteria of the material used. For plain, light, thin and translucent materials, the compensation ratio can be applied properly and give very satisfying results, namely flat skirts that are flat or parallel to the floor. However for satin-woven material, it is slightly heavy, shiny and somewhat thick. there is still a need to make corrections to the pattern compensation ratio used, because even though it is able to reduce the length of the fiber, it has not been able to produce a smooth skirt that is parallel to the floor.

5. Conclusion

Making the bottom edge of the skirt (new pattern line) after applying the pattern compensation ratio is done by dividing the known pattern and angle compensation ratio. If the known angle is X and the pattern compensation ratio is Y, the new point that will be formed is at angle 22. Suppose that at an angle of 450 the known pattern compensation ratio is 2, then at an angle of 22.50 the compensation ratio of the applied pattern is 1 cm and at an angle 11.50 the enough to form a gentle curved line.

Acknowledgement

The authors would like to thank their colleagues for their contribution and support to the research. They are also thankful to all the reviewers who gave their valuable inputs to the manuscript and helped in completing the paper.

Conflict of Interest

The authors have no conflict of interest to declare.

References

1Β 

Chan Ho Park and Jongsuk Chun, Development of the Bias-Cut Dress Pattern Making Method by Applying Fabric Draping Ratio. https://www.researchgate.net/publication/267776709

2Β 

Amstrong, Helen Joseph. (1987). Pattern Making For Fashion Design. New York: Arper & Row Publisher.

3Β 

Hillhouse, Marion, & Evelyn A Mansfield. (1948). Dress Design Draping and Flat Pattern Making. United States of America: The Riverside Press Cambridge.

4Β 

G. Holman, Bias – cut dressmaking. https://www.researchgate.net/publication/267776709

5Β 

http://www.readorrefer.in/article/Identification-of-Grain-in-designing-of-woven- textiles-and- garment-designing_1875/, tanggal 23 January, pukul 13.00.

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ISSN: 2518-668X